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Stranded tourists in Ladakh and Kashmir receive free accommodation and kindness from hospitality industry 

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Seventy two year-old Sushama Davar spends half her time in India and the rest in the US. When she arrived for a short trip during the summer months this year, her husband and she decided to flee the heat of Mumbai (where she is based), and planned a trip to Ladakh and Kashmir. “We were travelling on April 29. Because of the terror attack [in Kashmir’s Pahalgam on April 22], we cancelled our Kashmir plans and added days to our Ladakh itinerary,” she says.

The first few days were spent hiking, trekking and exploring this new, stunning topography. “It’s a once in a lifetime place,” she says. On May 6 though, the news of the airport in Leh shutting down for border security, caused some concern. “We were on our way to the Pangong Tso lake and our connectivity was not great but we had already heard chatter about the airport being shut down and were a bit disappointed,” she says.

In the days since the airport has been shut though, Sushama has been the recipient of unconditional hospitality from her hotel in Leh. On May 7, Rigzin Wangmo Lachic, president, All Ladakh Hotel and Guest House Association and founder of Dolkhar, a boutique hotel, announced that all hotels in Ladakh would accommodate stranded guests for free until flights begin taking off again. “Nobody must have seen this coming. It is hence our duty to our guests to extend this hospitality,” Lachic says.

The Dal Lake at Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir

The Dal Lake at Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir

Ladakh is not the only place in North India which has accommodated travellers. Javed Burza, president of the Pahalgam Restaurant and Hotel Owners Association, said that stranded tourists who were looking to go home after the news of the attack on April 22, were allowed to stay in various hotels and guest houses across Jammu and Kashmir, particularly in Srinagar for the subsequent days. “There are no tourists here now. The truth is that we feel like scapegoats,” he says.

Considering it is peak season in places like Leh, Kashmir and Dharamshala, the economy here, heavily dependent on tourism, has deeply suffered losses. The pinch has been felt in an all-pervasive manner, affecting not just hoteliers, but also shopkeepers, vegetable vendors, markets, business owners and transport businesses. “Nearly 70% of Ladakh depends on tourism to run the show for the year. It is going to be a difficult time for us, especially for those of us who have taken loans for repair works and construction,” says Nawang Tashi, vice president, Guest House Representative, All Ladakh Hotel and Guest House Association.

Lachic says that tourism opened in Ladakh in 1974. Until then, the stray trekker made their way to this underexplored region in the 1920s and 1930s. “The harsh winters and the lack of road access made it difficult for people to visit. By 2008 and 2009 though, we had an influx of domestic tourists. By this time, low cost operational flights landed in Leh and the release of the film 3 Idiots helped popularise the destination. The economy saw a boom,” she says.

When the phenomenon of ‘revenge travelling’ entered as part of the post-COVID lexicon, Ladakh became a preferred destination for not just trekkers but also for those who wanted to go on self-driving holidays and luxury camps. “In 2024 though, we saw quite a dip that we were unable to explain. The economy went down by about 30%. We were hoping to make up for losses this year because the bookings in March and April seemed encouraging. We were hoping it would sustain till July but unfortunate circumstances happened,” Lachic says. There are currently around 1,500 stay options ranging from guest houses that charge ₹800 a night to premium properties that charge ₹50,000 for the day.

Passengers wait outside at Jinnah International airport after all domestic and international flights were cancelled in Karachi on May 7, 2025.

Passengers wait outside at Jinnah International airport after all domestic and international flights were cancelled in Karachi on May 7, 2025.

Javed agrees. He states that though horticulture is said to have contributed most to Kashmir’s economy, tourism in the last few years has made quite the difference to people’s lives. “There is not much hysteria now but it is going to be a while until we can recover and rebuild. Terror attacks have happened in other parts of the country too like Mumbai. We have to bounce back but it is a time of bad luck for everyone,” he says.

Currently, Tsewang Dorjey, president All Ladakh Tour Operators Association, says that they have been arranging tempos to transport tourists to other parts of the country by road. The preferred destination for flights back home is Delhi. Although Innovas usually ply in the region, tempos, which can seat 12 individuals, is currently a more effective form of travel. “We are taking travellers through the one road that is open, the new Nimmu-Padam-Darcha (NPD) road, also known as the Zanskar Highway. “Instead of charging ₹5,500 per person as we would, usually, we are charging ₹2,000. This is just to cover basic costs,” he says.

Rahul Dhiman, president of the Hotel Owners Association in Dharamshala, and Ankit Gupta, president, Chandigarh Hospitality Association, and joint secretary, Hotel and Restaurant Association of Northern India, says that though flights have been grounded, tourists in these regions have not been affected extensively as road and railway options still exist as travel options. “Currently, we are hand holding through the mock drills and blackouts but that is about it. If the situation worsens, we will be happy to step in and provide free stay,” Rahul says. Occupancy in Dharamshala is at about 40% in the 400 hotels part of the association. This is pretty standard for the time, he adds.

People waiting at baggage claim conveyor belts in the arrival area of Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport lead

People waiting at baggage claim conveyor belts in the arrival area of Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport lead

Lachic says that despite the panic, those who are in Ladakh, have continued with their itinerary and made the most of their extended days. “There is no restriction of movement within the territory,” she says. She adds that waivers from the Government on repayment of loans and electricity bills would aid the community massively and help them continue their work in the long run. Losses otherwise, would not be sustainable, she says.

Hospitality in the region now requires more support than ever, Sushma says, adding “The place is beyond wonderful and more people need to see it. I do not regret making the trip one bit. I just hope to make my flight back home soon though.”

At the entrance of Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport.

At the entrance of Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport.

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What Miss World 2025 contestants are eating in Hyderabad

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A salad spread at Trident Hyderabad

A salad spread at Trident Hyderabad
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

As Hyderabad, Telangana, plays host to the Miss World 2025 pageant, we cannot help but wonder: what is on the menu for the 108 contestants? Are they nibbling on salads, or trying our local idli, dosa, and vada?

What Miss World 2025 contestants are eating in Hyderabad

What Miss World 2025 contestants are eating in Hyderabad
| Video Credit:
The Hindu

To find out, we visit Trident Hyderabad — the official host hotel for the 25-day event, with the final slated for May 31 — where we caught up with Sous Chef Anubhav Mathur, fresh from wrapping up a fun ‘make-your-own-pizza’ night with the contestants. The 108 contestants have chaperones who take care of their needs and assist them with their schedules. A total of 157 guests from the Miss World team are staying at the property.

Chef Anubhav adding the finishing touches to a pizza

Chef Anubhav adding the finishing touches to a pizza
| Photo Credit:
The Hindu

“There’s no fixed diet chart,” he says. “We were asked to keep the food international, considering the wide range of nationalities. To make dining easier and more private, we’ve dedicated our Tuscany restaurant exclusively to them. The menu includes dishes from all three of our outlets — Amara is the all-day dining multi-cuisine restaurant, Kanak, serves Indian food and Tuscany is the Italian specialty restaurant.”

Participants of Miss World 2025 at a fun event

Participants of Miss World 2025 at a fun event
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

Are Indian flavours still on the table? “Absolutely. We’ve toned down the spice levels and tailored Indian dishes to suit their dietary preferences,” said Anubhav. “They enjoy dishes like palak paneer, dals, grilled meats in malai marinade, and a range of Indian breads. On the international side, we offer a selection of meats, fish, and high-protein salads.”

Some crowd-favourite salads include beetroot and feta, grilled chicken, egg salad, and sweet potato salad. Telangana’s local ingredients also feature along with millet breads, low-oil vegetable stir fries with courgettes, aubergines, bell peppers and mushrooms. Cleanse juices are also asked for.

Miss World 2025 contestants during a Zumba session

Miss World 2025 contestants during a Zumba session
| Photo Credit:
Nagara Gopal

Even biryani has made its way onto the menu. “It’s very mild, flavourful but without the typical heat of chilli or red chilli powder,” said Anubhav. “They’re open to trying local flavours, though mindful of carb intake.” The contestant from Wales, Millie-Mae Adams, says she was worried about her nut allergy. “But the hotel has taken care of my food very well. They don’t forget about my allergy concerns,” she said.

Dishes like pan seared salmon are a staple for dinners and lunches when they aren’t eating breads and biryani.

Dishes like pan seared salmon are a staple for dinners and lunches when they aren’t eating breads and biryani.
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

The kitchen also accommodates vegan requirements with dishes made in light, oil-free gravies featuring millets, raw jackfruit, and sweet potatoes. “The vegan contestants are especially curious about the ingredients and recipes,” he added.

Desserts have been the most fun, and the most challenging. “We make all our ice creams in-house, so they get to try unique flavours like rose and pistachio. We also did flourless cake one night. In our desserts, sugar is replaced with dates, and we also offer mixed nut ladoos and healthy snack bites.” From millet rotis to date-sweetened treats, the menu is a celebration of thoughtful, flavourful, and globally-minded cuisine.

Chef Rakshay at Trident Hyderabad prepares a pan-seared salmon

Chef Rakshay at Trident Hyderabad prepares a pan-seared salmon
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

Hana Johns, Miss World contestant from Northern Ireland, loved the biryani “I had the biryani for three days and I cannot get enough of it.”

Miss World Contestant from Kenya, Grace Ramtu says, “The chicken curry is my absolute favourite. My eyes light-up when I see chicken curry for any meal.”

The finals of the 72nd edition of the Miss World pageant is to be held at the HITEX Exhibition Centre in Hyderabad, Telangana, India, May 31, 2025

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Sharing tables and tales in Sikkim Shalini Philip

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You know how you sometimes hear of a place, and even before you have been there, you are already in love? I vividly remember hearing the name Gangtok in school, when we were learning capital cities, and knowing instinctively that I would find my way there some day. And I have been lucky to travel to Sikkim several times over the last decade.

Late last year, I co-hosted a Food Trail through Sikkim. Ten people — across age groups and countries, from India to Mexico and Columbia — all motivated by food and new experiences, travelled together for 10 days, eating and drinking their way through this tiny state that has an incredibly surprising diversity. We stayed with local families and lived their lives for a short while.

The family at our homestay in Darap welcomed us into their home and into their kitchen. We cooked along with them using many ingredients from their garden and the surrounding fields.  

The family at our homestay in Darap welcomed us into their home and into their kitchen. We cooked along with them using many ingredients from their garden and the surrounding fields.  
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

I often say that food is our greatest common factor. It is such a personal and inherent part of a culture — one that sings of family, kinship, friendship, love and respect. It doesn’t matter if you don’t know a culture or its people; all it takes is one meal together for the beginnings of a relationship to be established. Someone willing to take the time and effort to make a meal for you. How can that not mean something?

The food trail started off with us as strangers travelling together, bound by a common interest. That changed quickly. Morning chai in our pyjamas, shared excitement over trying something new, and a willingness to experience a culture for what it is without any biases; it was special to be a part of such a group. I absolutely love that everyone stayed enthusiastic about everything. Only iskus (chayote/chow chow) as a vegetable for three meals in a row — no problem. Beef served by a host that two couldn’t eat — there’s always dalle and ghee. Help the hosts to cook the meal — always. Take a million photographs of every meal — most definitely. This is what makes for the best sort of travel.

Every single household had crates, drums, boxes and pots of flowers in every conceivable colour.  

Every single household had crates, drums, boxes and pots of flowers in every conceivable colour.  
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

What follows is a photographic meander through those days.

A Nepali home in West Sikkim

The little village of Darap is not really on the tourist map. Nestled in the mountains, it is straight out of a story book with stone stairways leading up and through the village, fields of black cardamom, and gardens bursting with dahlias, marigolds, ferns and poinsettias.

Sel roti, a Nepali classic, is served with iskus that grows wild. There are preserved or fresh dalle chillies on the table at every single meal.  

Sel roti, a Nepali classic, is served with iskus that grows wild. There are preserved or fresh dalle chillies on the table at every single meal.  
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

Fields of green cardamom on the mountainside of Darap. This is their cash crop.  

Fields of green cardamom on the mountainside of Darap. This is their cash crop.  
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

The Nepali families here are warm, welcoming and always happy to have you come into their kitchen and help with the daily meals. The food is served on gorgeous hammered brass plates that seem to make it taste even better. And, as is common in most villages, all meals are made from scratch, using local ingredients that change with the season. Late November gave us fiddlehead ferns, wild avocados, a small and precious quantity of nakima (a wild flower-vegetable) and lots of fresh chhurpi.

The food in a Nepali household is primarily vegetarian, with chicken offered at some meals. Dairy plays an important role, with fresh chhurpi made in every household. This radish salad with chhurpi and dalle chillies was the highlight of our meals in Darap.  

The food in a Nepali household is primarily vegetarian, with chicken offered at some meals. Dairy plays an important role, with fresh chhurpi made in every household. This radish salad with chhurpi and dalle chillies was the highlight of our meals in Darap.  
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

South Sikkim and the Bhutias

Several hours down a bumpy road took us to another part of Sikkim — the south, to a Bhutia home. Of Tibetan origin, these households make the kitchen the central room of their homes. Wood-fired cooking, smoking racks hung from the ceiling, and meals that involve the entire family; I have a special place in my heart for the little settlement of Kewsing that offers spectacular views of the mighty Kangchenjunga.

Beef and pork feature on the plates in a Bhutia household. Broth, stinging nettle soup, the now familiar radish salad, and a spoonful of rich chhurpi, which is always freshly churned. And a dalle chilli, of course!

Beef and pork feature on the plates in a Bhutia household. Broth, stinging nettle soup, the now familiar radish salad, and a spoonful of rich chhurpi, which is always freshly churned. And a dalle chilli, of course!
| Photo Credit:
Shalini Philip

Tingmo is a steamed bread, often eaten at breakfast with a side of vegetable or meat.

Tingmo is a steamed bread, often eaten at breakfast with a side of vegetable or meat.

Endless cups of tea are drunk while one goes about everyday tasks. I always enjoy the chai because it comes with a chance to sit down and talk. Seen here is chai with puffed rice and khabsey, a lightly sweetened, fried snack.  

Endless cups of tea are drunk while one goes about everyday tasks. I always enjoy the chai because it comes with a chance to sit down and talk. Seen here is chai with puffed rice and khabsey, a lightly sweetened, fried snack.  

With no taboos around pork and beef, the Bhutia kitchens offered us an opportunity to sample and make out-of-the-ordinary things such as blood sausages, bone broth soup, and slabs of smoked pork. The meats are mildly seasoned, to let the taste of the meat itself shine through.

One of the many meals that involves the entire family in its preparation is momos. Served with a smashing dalle chutney.  

One of the many meals that involves the entire family in its preparation is momos. Served with a smashing dalle chutney.  

Hand-rolled pasta called cowri (shell) are made for breakfast to go along with a hearty beef broth.  

Hand-rolled pasta called cowri (shell) are made for breakfast to go along with a hearty beef broth.  

Nose to tail is the way things work. And so, blood sausages — a classic in a Bhutia kitchen.  

Nose to tail is the way things work. And so, blood sausages — a classic in a Bhutia kitchen.  

Chang and the Lepchas in North Sikkim

The most magical of all places in Sikkim (and mind you, there are many) is Dzongu. Home to the original inhabitants of the state, the Lepchas, it is nature at its most abundant. Crystal blue streams, skies that match, and pathways that lead through beautiful forests.

The natural yeast starter used to make the local alcohol chang. The plants are collected in the forest and set into these rice cakes.  

The natural yeast starter used to make the local alcohol chang. The plants are collected in the forest and set into these rice cakes.  

A picnic by the river in Dzongu with whole roast chicken cooked over a rustic rotisserie made of sticks.

A picnic by the river in Dzongu with whole roast chicken cooked over a rustic rotisserie made of sticks.

The giant tree ferns in the forests of Dzongu.  

The giant tree ferns in the forests of Dzongu.  

Cooking pork in bamboo segments over an open fire. River stones were used to close the tops and trap the heat.  

Cooking pork in bamboo segments over an open fire. River stones were used to close the tops and trap the heat.  

The Lepchas are known to make the best chang, a local drink made by fermenting rice or ragi grains. It is cool, light and refreshing, and can really pack a punch because one tends to drink a fair amount rather easily.

One night in Gangtok

The ideal end of many days of slow village life is to get to Gangtok and enjoy the bustle of the capital that is bursting with produce. As always, I have a list. Places to eat at  — there was no way we were leaving without enjoying some meaty shaphalay (bread stuffed with meat), more momos, laphing (a cold noodle dish) and the now famous dalle fries — and more importantly, shops in the market to buy produce and take home. And as always, I know I will buy an extra bag or three to pack all the things I simply must have.

 Bara Bazaar, with its mountains of fresh, dried, fermented and preserved produce.

 Bara Bazaar, with its mountains of fresh, dried, fermented and preserved produce.

The day after I returned, as I unpacked my bags, I couldn’t help but liken the food with the people of Sikkim: simple yet so unique, warm and immediately likeable, colourful and quite unforgettable. With every visit to this beautiful mountain state in the eastern Himalayas I realise all over again how apt the Sikkimese name for this place is — Demazong. Hidden paradise.

Dalle and chhurpi in my suitcase

Bara Bazaar, as the main market is known, blows open on the weekends with people coming from all the smaller towns and villages to sell their produce. Organic by default, it is fascinating to walk through the mountains of fresh, dried, fermented and preserved produce sold by fashionably dressed women who seem to constantly be snacking while they go about business.

I picked up bouquets of chimping (hogweed), a spice that bring a citrusy tang to chutneys, hard chhurpi (fermented cottage cheese) that one can chew on for hours, bitter lemons, dried dalle chillies, black cardamom, and yeast starter for the local alcohol (because the cakes are just so pretty).

Chimping, hard chhurpi, bitter lemons that masquerade as oranges, dried dalle chillies, more chhurpi in all shapes and sizes, some black cardamom, yeast starters, and a fruit that I am yet to identify.

Chimping, hard chhurpi, bitter lemons that masquerade as oranges, dried dalle chillies, more chhurpi in all shapes and sizes, some black cardamom, yeast starters, and a fruit that I am yet to identify.

More chhurpi, stinging nettle, hog plums, Sikkimese coffee, and books from Rachna Books.  

More chhurpi, stinging nettle, hog plums, Sikkimese coffee, and books from Rachna Books.  

I love the piles of dalle chillies one can find in markets across Sikkim, and the numerous bottles of preserved, fresh or dried chillies in every kitchen. No meal is complete without a dalle or three smashed into the rice, with a dollop of homemade ghee.  

I love the piles of dalle chillies one can find in markets across Sikkim, and the numerous bottles of preserved, fresh or dried chillies in every kitchen. No meal is complete without a dalle or three smashed into the rice, with a dollop of homemade ghee.  

I also packed stinging nettle that can be used in soups, hog plums to make a pickle, Sikkimese coffee, which seems to be all the rage in Gangtok, and books from my favourite bookstore in the city, Rachna Books.

The writer is co-owner of The Farm in Chennai.

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Puri: What to see, do, and experience in Odisha’s temple town

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The coastal town of Puri in Odisha is much more than just a beach destination. Steeped in history, spirituality, and rich cultural traditions, it offers travellers an immersive experience. Famous for the revered Jagannath Temple, one of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites, the town pulses with the energy of devotees. The town’s markets brim with the intricate Pattachitra paintings, sand and shell art, and Odisha’s handlooms. Here are five unmissable experiences when in Puri:

Sun Temple of Konark

Tourists going around the Konark Temple, a 13th Century monument and UNESCO Heritage Site, located at a distance of about 35 kilometres from Puri in Odisha.

Tourists going around the Konark Temple, a 13th Century monument and UNESCO Heritage Site, located at a distance of about 35 kilometres from Puri in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
K R DEEPAK

A short 50-kilometre drive from Puri takes you to the Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in the 13th century by King Narasingha Deva I, this architectural masterpiece is shaped like a colossal chariot dedicated to Surya, the Sun God. The intricate stone carvings, depicting celestial beings, mythical creatures, and everyday life, is a breathtaking tapestry of artistry and storytelling.

The grandeur of the temple can be best experienced at dusk. As the sun dips below the horizon, the Konark Temple glows in a golden embrace, its carvings casting long, mystical shadows, while the evening breeze whispers through the ruins, carrying echoes of a timeless past. Presently, a team of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is inspecting the progress of sand removal from the Sun Temple, often regarded as one of the seven wonders of India. The assessment that was initiated in 2024 aims to help experts determine whether the sand, which was placed inside the temple’s assembly hall (Jagamohan) by the British more than 100 years ago to reinforce its stability, can now be safely removed.

The magnificent Konark Sun Temple receives on an average 5,000 to 10,000 visitors daily. Currently, the light and sound show depicting the history of the temple has been halted due to a technical issue. The timings of the temple are 6am to 6pm.

Odia Thali at Taj’s Vista Restaurant

Odia thali dished out at Vista restaurant at Taj Puri Resort Spa in Puri , Odisha.

Odia thali dished out at Vista restaurant at Taj Puri Resort Spa in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
K R DEEPAK

Food in Puri is a revelation, and no visit can be complete without indulging in an authentic Odia thali. However, finding a wholesome Odia thali can be a challenge in Puri, except in homes in the city. Taj Puri Resorts’ restaurant, Vista, bridges this gap by offering a lavish spread of traditional Odia delicacies, bringing the culinary heritage of the region to the table.

Curated by the hotel’s executive chef Biswarup Chatterjee, the thali is a symphony of flavours and textures. It includes dalma, a hearty lentil dish cooked with mixed vegetables and tempered with paanch phoron (mix of five spices), is both nourishing and subtly spiced. The mustard-infused chatu besara is a wild mushroom curry with a tangy punch, while the koshila saag, a stir-fried medley of leafy vegetables, melts in your mouth with its mild seasoning. The deep-fried brinjal fritters adds a crunchy contrast. The thali is served with rice and maacha jhola, fish curry cooked in mustard paste. The star of the meal is chhena poda, a caramelised cottage cheese dessert with a smoky aftertaste that lingers pleasantly.

The thali is available for lunch and dinner at the Taj’s Vista restaurant.

The Jagannath Temple

A view of Jagannath temple in Puri , Odisha.

A view of Jagannath temple in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

One of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites, the Jagannath Temple is a spiritual and cultural cornerstone of Puri. Dedicated to Lord Jagannath, this 12th Century temple is renowned for its grand annual Rath Yatra (chariot festival) and its Mahaprasad – holy food prepared in earthen pots over wood fire. The temple kitchen, said to be one of the largest in the world, prepares Mahaprasad daily, using a traditional technique passed down generations. Devotees often partake in this sacred meal, which includes khechedi (spiced rice and lentils), dalma, and various sweets, served on banana leaves.

One of the main offerings here is the khaja, a crispy, golden sweet made with layers of refined flour and dunked in sugar syrup. What makes Puri’s khaja special is the use of pure desi ghee, adding an aroma and flavour. Stalls near the Jagannath Temple such as Nrusingha Sweets serve this delicacy fresh and warm. Most sweet shops offer two variants of khaja – one made in oil and other in desi ghee. With each bite, the flaky outer layers crumble delicately, while the syrupy core bursts with a rich sweetness. The legacy of khaja-making in Puri dates back centuries, and its association with temple rituals makes it an integral part of the town’s food culture.

Raghurajpur heritage village

A view of the entrance of the Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.

A view of the entrance of the Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

About 30 kilometres from Puri is the Raghurajpur Heritage Village, a living canvas of art and tradition. This quaint hamlet is renowned for its centuries-old legacy of Pattachitra, intricate scroll paintings depicting mythological tales, deities, and folklore. Every home here is an artist’s workshop, where vibrant murals and paintings adorn walls, and skilled hands bring to life palm leaf engravings, stone and wood carvings, and traditional toys. Walking through its narrow lanes is like stepping into an open-air museum, where the air is thick with the scent of natural dyes and the rhythmic strokes of paintbrushes narrate stories of a bygone era.

A woman sits outside her house with crafts displayed on the verandah at Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.

A woman sits outside her house with crafts displayed on the verandah at Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

The village is home to to several national award-winning artists who are part of the Raghurajpur Chitra Karigari Co-operative Society, an organisation dedicated to preserving these traditional art forms. Beyond its artistic charm, Raghurajpur is a testament to sustainable living, where craftsmanship is passed down generations, preserving Odisha’s rich cultural heritage. The villagers take immense pride in their work, welcoming visitors with warm smiles and a glimpse into their creative world. The best time to visit the village is from 8am till 6pm when visitors can watch the artistes create these art forms and purchase them.

Silver filigree

Silver jewellery displayed at a store in Puri , Odisha.

Silver jewellery displayed at a store in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Back in Cuttack, Pankaj Kumar Sahoo, a silver filigree artist creates intricate designs by transforming silver balls into fine threads and pressing them with wires through a detailed, time-intensive process. He is one of the main suppliers of silver filigree (or Rupa Tarakasi that was granted a Geographical Indication tag) in New Kalinga Filigree store in Puri. The store is one of the oldest in the temple town now run by second generation entrepreneur Sayed Saif Ali, who took over the reins of New Kalinga Filigree founded by his father in 1982. “With growing awareness around the uniqueness of this art form, we’ve seen a noticeable rise in demand,” says Sayed.

Each filigree piece, whether an ornate necklace, a delicate brooch, or a miniature idol of Lord Jagannath, reflects the art form continued for generations.

The writer was in Puri on the invitation of Taj Puri Resort and Spa

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