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Retreat like the royals at Fort Rajwada in Jaisalmer

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Jaisalmer is arid and parched. Desert brush dot the sands that seem to stretch endlessly. In the city, the barrenness is equally pronounced, which makes the first glance of Fort Rajwada even more impressive.

The gates loom large and majestic and the driveway curves past green lawns to stop at ornate double doors, intricately carved in sterling silver. Once you step through them you travel back in time to the land of maharajas, flying carpets and caparisoned elephants.

Except, this fort has only been around for two decades.

Vinay Khosla, managing director, Fort Rajwada, explains, “This is a built fort, one among the few hotels of this size constructed in 1999, with an intent to replicate the historic forts of the region.” He adds that it changed hands in 2017, and once it came into their possession, they began upgrading it as a hotel.

First, there is the traditional welcome, complete with aarti, tikka and a garland of marigolds. Next, a warm towel materialises on a salver and honestly, it is a little hard to pay attention to these ministrations when the foyer is so captivating.

Every visible surface exudes opulence — chandeliers, lush carpets, elaborate wallpaper, plush upholstery and carved stone pillars. The inner doors, again sterling silver, open out into a courtyard walled off with turrets at each corner. A huge marble fountain is flanked by walkways and nooks to the different wings of the fort that house the rooms.

Fort Rajwada

Fort Rajwada
| Photo Credit:
Ruth Dhanaraj

Each wing sports a different motif (rosette, geometric, and the like), which is mirrored throughout — from the accents on the room’s furniture to the smaller fountain in the centre of that wing. The attention to detail is astounding. Four poster beds, wood and rattan panelling, burnished brass fittings and cut glass lights, add to the continued feeling of stateliness.

Once you have settled in and shaken off your travel weariness, the hotel provides sightseeing trips into the city where one can marvel at its stunning historic architecture, and indulge in sampling local wares, arts and crafts.

Back at the Fort, arrangements are made for bonfires, folk singers and puppet shows in the evening for the entertainment of guests.

Indigenous materials

The overall colour scheme at the fort is gold, cream and beige, offset by warm wood and bright home decor.

“For the exteriors, Jaisalmer stone or sandstone indigenous to the region has been used; its hue is why we are called the Golden City. Inside, we’ve used Botticino and Red Levante, both Italian marble, while the lobby is done up in white Makrana, an exquisite white stone mined in Rajasthan,” says Vinay.

Though their wallpaper has been created by multiple award-winning designers, Vinay says the walls and ceiling of their reception area have been done by hand. “Artisans from various regions of our country, including Shekhawati, took about three years to complete their work in our hotel.”

Fort Rajwada

Fort Rajwada
| Photo Credit:
Ruth Dhanaraj

A brightly-coloured 20×20 mural depicting scenes from The Ramayana dominates one wall of the foyer. “We believe these 35 frames showing different instances from the epic will help guests understand our festivals and the celebration of good over evil,” says Vinay.

With a room count of 99, the living spaces in Fort Rajwada have been designed to make guests feel at home. The Elephant and Monkey Lounges complete with well-stocked bookshelves, faux fireplace and antique Persian carpets (monogrammed by the craftsmen), give guests the freedom to socialise in an elegant sitting room.

Indian miniatures from the Company School — art done during the time of the East India Company, when European painters came to India with their techniques — line the corridors and a huge Tanjore work of art adorns the landing.

Past the first glance

“Service providers are also service receivers,” says Vinay, explaining how they updated the hotel. “Every product has a life cycle or a shelf life. If the same product is being stretched beyond its use it won’t make economic sense in the long run.”

According to Vinay, Fort Rajwada deploys sustainable methods for the upkeep of the hotel. “Stone paint has a limited commercial life, so for us to enhance longevity, various tools and equipment are used on a regular basis.”

Fort Rajwada

Fort Rajwada
| Photo Credit:
Ruth Dhanaraj

Being a desert, almost every commodity in Rajasthan is hard to come by and is therefore more dearer than it would be elsewhere in the country. Thankfully, the Fort runs an effective rainwater harvesting and waste composting system. “With the hotel industry contributing to the world’s carbon emissions, it’s time for us to take sustainability measures and adopt more eco-friendly business practices,” says Vinay.

The writer was in Jaisalmer on the invitation of Fort Rajwada

Getting there

The best time to visit Jaisalmer is between October and March. As it is a defence airport, flights are limited but one can travel by road from Jodhpur in 4.5 hours. With well-paved roads sporting barely a pothole, even the most sensitive of car sick souls, will not have complaints.

Sightseeing in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Fort, Patwon Ki Haveli and the Jain Temples within the Fort are the main attractions. Many other edifices built using similar styles will captivate those with an interest in history and architecture.

Desert safaris and camel rides and camping will appeal to those willing to rough it out.

The Jaisalmer War Museum, Desert Culture Centre & Museum, Longewala War Memorial and Thar Heritage Museum beckon history buffs.

Gadisisar Sagar Lake, Kuldhara Abandoned Village, Akal Wood Fossil Park and Desert National Park are some other attractions apart from stores selling antique ware and handicrafts of the region.

Fort Rajwada

Fort Rajwada
| Photo Credit:
Ruth Dhanaraj

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Bettadmele Breakfast: A trek that rewards you with freshly made hot dosas on top of the hills

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Crispy hot dosas on your plate are always a delight. Pair it with a breath taking view of the sunrise and that would be bliss. That plateful after an early morning trek is reward in itself and if that is your idea of a fun activity, Bettadmele Breakfast is a half-day trek experience that unfolds at Hulukudibetta, Doddaballapur.

Organised by Suyana, a travel group in the city, trekkers are served hot, crispy dosas with chutney, fruit, jaggery rasayana, and millet malt after the one-hour climb. Suyana was founded in 2019 by Sushma BV, an HR professional, and her husband Sunil S, an UPSC aspirant. In 2022, Sushma quit her job and now curates travel experiences with Sunil. 

The couple organises a trek every weekend throughout the year in two batches — an early morning batch at 5.30, followed by a morning group at 6.30. Those who opt for the early morning trek are instructed to reach the base at Doddaballapur by 5am using their own transport, while those who opt for the morning trek are provided with transport facilities from various points in the city such as JP Nagar, Koramangala, Richmond Circle, Majestic, Mekhri Bus stop, Hebbal and Yelahanka to reach the base by 6.30am.  

View from the hill

View from the hill
| Photo Credit:
Srihari Raman

After a quick briefing session at the base, trek leaders guide the group to the top. Sushma says, “Our trek leaders not only ensure that participants follow the designated trail, but also keep the group engaged with fun activities.” 

Sushma and Sunil do not sleep the night before a trek. “We make all the food at home using fresh organic ingredients. We begin making the chutney, palya and rasayana around eleven, and complete it around two in the morning. Batter is made in the morning after the rice is soaked the previous night.”

Sushma elaborates on their operations. “Our team departs at around three in the morning with these items with traditional cast iron tawas, portable stoves and cans. We do not use non-stick pans and these tawas are quite heavy, so we have a team of about 15 people who work every weekend, carry this up the hill. They include a research scientist from IIST, lawyers, doctors and IT professionals with a common interest in travelling and curating experiences with us.” 

The team dishes out as many as 200-250 dosas atop the hill for breakfast. 

Families, friends and marathon runners as well as fitness and yoga groups are regular participants of this trek experience. “The trek is both age and pet friendly,” adds Sushma. “Anyone from 7 to 70 can join in as it is an easy trek of about 1,000 steps.” 

Dosa being made

Dosa being made
| Photo Credit:
Srihari Raman

The initiative is also sustainable. “We ask our participants to carry their own steel or reusable plates and glasses for the trek. A trash bag is also be placed on site to discard waste. We then carry this bag back to Bengaluru and dispose it at the nearest BBMP disposal unit,” says Sushma. 

“As of now, we organise Bettadmele Breakfast only at Hulukudibetta in Doddaballapur, and we chose this specific peak as it’s a lesser-known hill, that is not crowded with tourists. Moreover, the historic Veerabhadra Swamy and Bhadrakali temples are located at the top of the hill, which is an added incentive,” she says.

Meghana Suresh from Hennur, who went on the Bettadmele Breakfast experience in March 2025 with her family that includes her eight-and 12-year-old children, says, “We used our own transport and reached the base at five in the morning after which there was a warmup session. Though we missed the sunrise view since it was cloudy, there were other points to explore once we reached the peak. The highlight of the experience was definitely the breakfast. The ragi malt shake and dosa were excellent.”

Sushma says, “My husband Sunil and I started Suyana in 2019 because we wanted to curate unique travel experiences outside the routine of work. After the pandemic, we initiated more interactive experiences such as the Bettadmele Breakfast to connect people with nature and others.”  

The Suyana group also organises trips to Agumbe, Hampi Kallu and Kumpa Vistara as well as ones to experience the Siddhi tribe culture. While the Agumbe Vismaya package includes both exploring the rainforest, waterfalls, mud caves and local culture as well as learning about the staple food, vegetation, biodiversity, conservation of endangered flora and fauna, a trip to Hampi focuses on a historical view of the place, its architecture, culture, innovation and literature.

The cost for the Bettadmele Breakfast Experience starts at ₹1,101. For more details, contact 7406648322

OPTIONAL: Tips for first-time trekkers

– Smoking and alcohol are not allowed.
– Inform the organising team about any pre-existing medical conditions.
– Bring your personal medications if needed.
– Please carry light snacks if required like nuts or dry fruits. 
– Carry water bottles as the team will not be providing water and hydration is necessary.  
– Opt for comfortable attire and avoid cotton.
– Pet feces should be disposed in the trash bag the team provides. 
– If the trek is called off due to insufficient participants, the trekking fees shall be refunded. 

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Here’s what you can expect at Shoonya – The Festival of Nothingness

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The winding highway to Rishikesh’s Neelkanth Temple Road leads to Camp Brook, a luxury camping stay with cottages and tents, where a gamut of spiritual adventures awaits a crowd of 158 people. This is the venue for this year’s Shoonya – The Festival of Nothingness. Tracy Chapman’s tune ‘Fast Car’ stops midway when the destination arrives, just in time for the drumming session.

Anuj Aggarwal (right), one of the founding members of Shoonya Festival, poses with facilitators and guests at the festival

Anuj Aggarwal (right), one of the founding members of Shoonya Festival, poses with facilitators and guests at the festival
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

“The idea of Shoonya came out of a discussion on life between a group of friends and me. Everyone was feeling some discontentment. We wanted to create a space where people could escape into nothing and meet other people without any purpose — thus the name shoonya (which means zero). There’s no apparent narrative of wellness or healing associated with the festival. The first edition of Shoonya was held in Jibhi in 2018,” says Anuj Aggarwal, one of the founding members of Shoonya Festival. Other members include Manu, Saksham Ghiya, Rachna Ghiya, Aayush Sharma and Sagar Agrawal.

Guests at the activity groud of Camp Brook

Guests at the activity groud of Camp Brook
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

This year marks the ninth edition of the three-day festival that features many activities or sessions, from art therapy to breath work meditation and sound bath healing to mindful journaling. Previously, Shoonya had been held in Jibhi, Bir, Pushkar, Kunkhet, Jaipur, Goa and Chamba. It is organised by Jaipur-based company called Shoonya Experiences, which is founded by Anuj, Manu and Saksham. “It’s a for-profit company, but till now we have not made any profit. We do not have sponsors, but we do have in-kind partners,” Anuj explains.

Starts with something

The drumming session, conducted as a drum circle, invites you to beat the drum. Seated on chairs arranged in three concentric circles, everyone picks a djembe each and begins drumming. Facilitator Shreya Thakur orchestrates the jam, assigning rhythmic patterns to participants by splitting the circles in quarters and halves. Everyone blends in. The drumming intensifies. It is tea time. Some leave their instruments and head to the stall near the property’s kitchen which dishes out vegetarian meals.

What happens at Shoonya, the Festival of Nothingness?

| Video Credit:
The Hindu

For the evening, there are pakodas, tea and coffee. Others keep the tempo going and continue beating the drums. They are joined by dancers and a couple of flow artistes who spin the dapostar (an eight-sided spinning cloth with a large range of moves). In conversations spilled over tea, the complaints of numb hands are uttered in the same breath as the sighs of relief.

Drum circle

Drum circle
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

“We just want people to take a pause from their busy lives and connect with their inner selves, other people, without any judgements and in a safe place. We want them to explore many activities and take with them a thought that they could ponder on,” Anuj shares. Somewhere between existential and experiential, this non-judgemental, safe space comes at a price that starts at ₹5,999 per person. There is a full-bearded, long-haired Indian man with the sartorial sensibilities of a westernised hippie, a Netherland-born, Jaipur-based, clean-shaved blonde man in Indian clothes, and a grey-haired aged man who most people are addressing as ‘uncle’ — all in one frame.

Anuj Aggarwal at Shoonya Festival

Anuj Aggarwal at Shoonya Festival
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

The music flows to Camp Brook’s rear ground that faces river Heval. A fusion of sarod, hand pan and electric guitar, a trio named Sarod Mysticstakes inspiration from Indian classical ragas and regales the crowd through the evening.

A bit of everything

With rain, clouds and sun playing hide and seek the second day begins on a pensive note at the 7.30am breath-work session. The big circle breaks into tinier circles where participants share their main takeaways from the session. Some break down, others smile. The session is followed by ice bath. Rhythm Malhotra, a Gurugram-based business and embodiment coach, who mediates both the sessions says, “For the ice bath, we keep the water’s temperature between five and seven degrees. The natural response to ice bath is fight or flight, so when one is connected to his/her body through breath work, it prepares one’s mind and body. ”

Bhushan regales the audience with a fire juggling show

Bhushan regales the audience with a fire juggling show
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

She also talks about the mandatory precautions one must exercise before taking an ice bath, which is not recommended for people with heart conditions, pregnancy or epilepsy. “We get a waiver signed by the festival organisers before conducting ice bath sessions,” she adds. Another reason to excuse yourself from the icy dip near river Heval is hygiene, especially if you do not like the idea of dipping into the same foldable bathtub that has been used by over 10 people. However, Tushti Thakur from Delhi enjoyed the session and calls it “exhilarating”. “I could feel the negative emotions and tension wash away,” she says.

The rain pushes the martial arts session to a hall where a nunchaku (a widely used martial arts weapon in Southern Chinese Kung fu, Okinawan Kobudo and karate) practitioner, called Grey, takes the participants through the practice. Those who prefer subtle movements take to Bhushan’s poi-juggling session, where he enunciates the nuances of body movement through juggling. Those at the dance session stand acquainted with movements that define flow, chaos, staccato, lyrical and stillness. For the ones who like practicing mindfulness, there are sessions on journaling, creative writing and communication.

Anything but nothing

“We choose facilitators who fit into the concept of Shoonya and who wish to experience the festival while conducting their sessions too. We do sound bath, Chinese whisper, breathwork and blindfold often, but our list of sessions change with every edition,” says Anuj, who curates the sessions with Manu. “The sessions are designed in a specific flow with activities that complement each other,” he adds. He stresses on other points that are crucial to the festival’s curation — location and people. “We like to host the festival at a place that is close to Nature,” he says. He tells us that this edition took nearly seven months to curate and has witnessed maximum participation. “This is the first time we had over 100 participants. Nearly 30% are regular guests who have been associated with us since 2010.”

Ankit, a festival-goer, poses with his daughter Anayaa

Ankit, a festival-goer, poses with his daughter Anayaa
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

One such person is Mukta Basandani, a Jaipur-based mindset coach, who says that she has been associated with the festival for seven years. “But this was my first time as a facilitator. In my session, I guided participants to write with intention, starting with gratitude and scripting their dreams as if they had already come true. My husband and I brought our kids (aged 11 and six years) along and they thoroughly enjoyed every activity, from nunchaku to art sessions. In today’s stressful times, I feel such experiences are essential,” she says.

Another guest travelled all the way from Dubai. Kanchan Gurbux, a business development manager with Ernest & Young, says, “This is my second time at Shoonya. I got to know about it through my cousins. This festival allows me to cut off from my daily routine and allows me to be with myself while meeting new people and learning new experiences. I particularly loved the blindfold activity where I shared my personal feelings with an absolute stranger and that person gave me a new perspective on my feelings.”

The blindfold session at Shoonya

The blindfold session at Shoonya
| Photo Credit:
Manish Suryavanshi/Shoonya

At Shoonya, with sights and sounds galore, amidst people known unknown, lies a blank canvas of time and space that only you can paint with your thoughts, experiences, emotions, consciousness and perhaps by your very being. In times of trouble, you can always fall on Sartre and Martin Heidegger’s musings on nothingness, delve into quantum field theory that suggests vacuum is filled with virtual particles, or reflect on Indian philosophical traditions, like Sunyata, linked to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. Enter the void!

The writer was in Rishikesh on the invitation of Shoonya – The Festival of Nothingness .

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Thaipusam in California: A spiritual trail, 500 walkers, and a feast

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“Vel vel Muruganukku” and “Arohara!” are uttered by eight men in cycling gear as they ride and push their bikes towards the Shiva Muruga temple in Concord, California, from San Ramon. The year was 2010 and it was an epic journey for these men. The map they drew out that day, now called the Thaipusam trail is trekked by thousands of devotees in California.

“Planning the trail itself was an experience. Remember, this was before Google maps. We rode our bicycles, mapping the route,” explains Solai Alagappan, 53, who initiated the walk. “Walking to Murugan temples during Thaipusam is a 400-year-old tradition in South India. I have walked to the Dhandayuthapani Swamy temple at Palani in Tamil Nadu and inspired by this tradition, wanted to organise a similar walk in the US,” says Solai who works for a global tech company in California. In the first year, he had 50 people sign up to walk the 21-mile trail.

In 2015, Solai and his friends went on to formally establish Pathayathirai, a not-for-profit, with the sole purpose of organising walks and hikes that bring the community together and support their spiritual and physical well-being. Among their initiatives, the Thaipusam trek has garnered a steady following and in some years has had over 3,000 walkers.

A new trail which leads to the Velmont Spiritual Centre in Mountain house was created by the Pathayathirai team this year

A new trail which leads to the Velmont Spiritual Centre in Mountain house was created by the Pathayathirai team this year
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

This year for Thaipusam, a new trail which leads to the Velmont Spiritual Centre in Mountain House was created by the same team. At the temple perched at the highest point of the open grasslands, sits an aimpon (panchaloha) statue of lord Murugan. “Once we did the recce and confirmed the route, we did another four rounds by foot to get the operational aspects covered. The scenic trail to the base of the hill is 4.5 miles and we created a girivalam (a path around the hill) that’s two miles,” says Solai. Being the first year, the team made a conscious decision to allow only 500 walkers, a majority of whom were from California, but also included people from Washington DC and Boston as well.

Packed energy treats for the walkers

Packed energy treats for the walkers
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Before walking uphill, the walkers reach a thaneerpandal (resting spot) set up by a group of volunteers. “Our volunteers made panakam, buttermilk, tea, mini samosas, sundal and packed a shot of energy treats for the walkers. In my last trip to India, I stopped at these small stores in and around Tamil Nadu, what we call pottikadai and curated a giveaway. The pack included mini murukku, orange mittaai, puli mittai, jujubes, fig halwa, and achocolate bar. We wanted to support small business owners,” shares Alagu AL, the co-ordinator for the thaneerpandal, who works in accounting and finance.

The Thaneerpandal(resting spot) had samosas, panakam, buttermilk, and tea made by volunteers for the walkers

The Thaneerpandal(resting spot) had samosas, panakam, buttermilk, and tea made by volunteers for the walkers
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The team reiterates that the initiative is volunteer driven. “For example, Ganesh Babu oversees the permits, communications and registrations. Uday works on the trail operations. There are so many more people who come together to make this walk happen. Breakfast for walkers and volunteers was cooked in home kitchens near the location. Over 100 volunteers actively participated to support the walk,” they say.

Volunteers help prep for the banana leaf meals

Volunteers help prep for the banana leaf meals
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Across the globe the pusa saapaadu (lunch) is a significant part of the Thaipusam celebrations and viewed as prasadam. “We served elai saapaadu (banana leaf meals) at the neighhourhood school. Volunteers gathered the previous day and cut over 200 kilograms of vegetables and helped with the prep work. The dishes were cooked in the Dublin kitchen of Anjappar Hotels, as it’s the nearest to the Velmont temple,” explains Selvam Sethuraman, 47, and Meyyappan Ramanathan, 57, active volunteers who spearheaded the food and service operations for the walk.

On the banana leaf there is salt, lemon pickle, potato masala, cabbage kootu, a mixed rice, appalam and a generous serving of steaming hot ponni raw rice. Ghee and dal is followed by pumpkin tamarind curry, tomato rasam and white pumpkin sambhar. The meal ends with a javarisi and semiya payasam. Volunteers come in turns and take care all the way till the vessels are washed and stored back in the cupboards.

Banana leaf meals being served at the neighbourhood school as a part of the Thaipusam celebrations

Banana leaf meals being served at the neighbourhood school as a part of the Thaipusam celebrations
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

“Over the years, we’ve been able to inspire and guide folks in Michigan, Texas, and Washington DC and they’ve created similar trails and experiences. The whole idea is to recreate the Palani pathayathira, that we miss,” says Solai.

The chants, rituals, and vibrant kavadi and pal kodam processions on a cold Saturday morning, were a celebration of community spirit. For some it was penance, for others it was emotional healing and spiritual renewal; and for still others it was a beautiful morning trek at the end of which they got to take home a bottle of Palani panchamirtham, shipped out from India, and sit down for a elai saapadu.

With the success of this trail and support from a network of volunteers, planning the 2026 Thaipusam celebrations has begun. Should you like a slice of Tamil culture, the Velmont Thaipusam trail should be next on your bucket list.

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