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Puri: What to see, do, and experience in Odisha’s temple town

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The coastal town of Puri in Odisha is much more than just a beach destination. Steeped in history, spirituality, and rich cultural traditions, it offers travellers an immersive experience. Famous for the revered Jagannath Temple, one of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites, the town pulses with the energy of devotees. The town’s markets brim with the intricate Pattachitra paintings, sand and shell art, and Odisha’s handlooms. Here are five unmissable experiences when in Puri:

Sun Temple of Konark

Tourists going around the Konark Temple, a 13th Century monument and UNESCO Heritage Site, located at a distance of about 35 kilometres from Puri in Odisha.

Tourists going around the Konark Temple, a 13th Century monument and UNESCO Heritage Site, located at a distance of about 35 kilometres from Puri in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
K R DEEPAK

A short 50-kilometre drive from Puri takes you to the Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in the 13th century by King Narasingha Deva I, this architectural masterpiece is shaped like a colossal chariot dedicated to Surya, the Sun God. The intricate stone carvings, depicting celestial beings, mythical creatures, and everyday life, is a breathtaking tapestry of artistry and storytelling.

The grandeur of the temple can be best experienced at dusk. As the sun dips below the horizon, the Konark Temple glows in a golden embrace, its carvings casting long, mystical shadows, while the evening breeze whispers through the ruins, carrying echoes of a timeless past. Presently, a team of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is inspecting the progress of sand removal from the Sun Temple, often regarded as one of the seven wonders of India. The assessment that was initiated in 2024 aims to help experts determine whether the sand, which was placed inside the temple’s assembly hall (Jagamohan) by the British more than 100 years ago to reinforce its stability, can now be safely removed.

The magnificent Konark Sun Temple receives on an average 5,000 to 10,000 visitors daily. Currently, the light and sound show depicting the history of the temple has been halted due to a technical issue. The timings of the temple are 6am to 6pm.

Odia Thali at Taj’s Vista Restaurant

Odia thali dished out at Vista restaurant at Taj Puri Resort Spa in Puri , Odisha.

Odia thali dished out at Vista restaurant at Taj Puri Resort Spa in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
K R DEEPAK

Food in Puri is a revelation, and no visit can be complete without indulging in an authentic Odia thali. However, finding a wholesome Odia thali can be a challenge in Puri, except in homes in the city. Taj Puri Resorts’ restaurant, Vista, bridges this gap by offering a lavish spread of traditional Odia delicacies, bringing the culinary heritage of the region to the table.

Curated by the hotel’s executive chef Biswarup Chatterjee, the thali is a symphony of flavours and textures. It includes dalma, a hearty lentil dish cooked with mixed vegetables and tempered with paanch phoron (mix of five spices), is both nourishing and subtly spiced. The mustard-infused chatu besara is a wild mushroom curry with a tangy punch, while the koshila saag, a stir-fried medley of leafy vegetables, melts in your mouth with its mild seasoning. The deep-fried brinjal fritters adds a crunchy contrast. The thali is served with rice and maacha jhola, fish curry cooked in mustard paste. The star of the meal is chhena poda, a caramelised cottage cheese dessert with a smoky aftertaste that lingers pleasantly.

The thali is available for lunch and dinner at the Taj’s Vista restaurant.

The Jagannath Temple

A view of Jagannath temple in Puri , Odisha.

A view of Jagannath temple in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

One of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites, the Jagannath Temple is a spiritual and cultural cornerstone of Puri. Dedicated to Lord Jagannath, this 12th Century temple is renowned for its grand annual Rath Yatra (chariot festival) and its Mahaprasad – holy food prepared in earthen pots over wood fire. The temple kitchen, said to be one of the largest in the world, prepares Mahaprasad daily, using a traditional technique passed down generations. Devotees often partake in this sacred meal, which includes khechedi (spiced rice and lentils), dalma, and various sweets, served on banana leaves.

One of the main offerings here is the khaja, a crispy, golden sweet made with layers of refined flour and dunked in sugar syrup. What makes Puri’s khaja special is the use of pure desi ghee, adding an aroma and flavour. Stalls near the Jagannath Temple such as Nrusingha Sweets serve this delicacy fresh and warm. Most sweet shops offer two variants of khaja – one made in oil and other in desi ghee. With each bite, the flaky outer layers crumble delicately, while the syrupy core bursts with a rich sweetness. The legacy of khaja-making in Puri dates back centuries, and its association with temple rituals makes it an integral part of the town’s food culture.

Raghurajpur heritage village

A view of the entrance of the Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.

A view of the entrance of the Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

About 30 kilometres from Puri is the Raghurajpur Heritage Village, a living canvas of art and tradition. This quaint hamlet is renowned for its centuries-old legacy of Pattachitra, intricate scroll paintings depicting mythological tales, deities, and folklore. Every home here is an artist’s workshop, where vibrant murals and paintings adorn walls, and skilled hands bring to life palm leaf engravings, stone and wood carvings, and traditional toys. Walking through its narrow lanes is like stepping into an open-air museum, where the air is thick with the scent of natural dyes and the rhythmic strokes of paintbrushes narrate stories of a bygone era.

A woman sits outside her house with crafts displayed on the verandah at Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.

A woman sits outside her house with crafts displayed on the verandah at Raghurajpur heritage village, known for Pattachitra and palm leaf engravings, in Puri district of Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

The village is home to to several national award-winning artists who are part of the Raghurajpur Chitra Karigari Co-operative Society, an organisation dedicated to preserving these traditional art forms. Beyond its artistic charm, Raghurajpur is a testament to sustainable living, where craftsmanship is passed down generations, preserving Odisha’s rich cultural heritage. The villagers take immense pride in their work, welcoming visitors with warm smiles and a glimpse into their creative world. The best time to visit the village is from 8am till 6pm when visitors can watch the artistes create these art forms and purchase them.

Silver filigree

Silver jewellery displayed at a store in Puri , Odisha.

Silver jewellery displayed at a store in Puri , Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak

Back in Cuttack, Pankaj Kumar Sahoo, a silver filigree artist creates intricate designs by transforming silver balls into fine threads and pressing them with wires through a detailed, time-intensive process. He is one of the main suppliers of silver filigree (or Rupa Tarakasi that was granted a Geographical Indication tag) in New Kalinga Filigree store in Puri. The store is one of the oldest in the temple town now run by second generation entrepreneur Sayed Saif Ali, who took over the reins of New Kalinga Filigree founded by his father in 1982. “With growing awareness around the uniqueness of this art form, we’ve seen a noticeable rise in demand,” says Sayed.

Each filigree piece, whether an ornate necklace, a delicate brooch, or a miniature idol of Lord Jagannath, reflects the art form continued for generations.

The writer was in Puri on the invitation of Taj Puri Resort and Spa

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This Pride month we talk to tour groups that curate travels and experiences for the LGBTQ+ community

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This Pride month we talk to tour groups that curate travels and experiences for the LGBTQ+ community

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Sunrise in Siruvani: A peek into Tamil culture and Kongunadu cuisine

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The property is surrounded by lush greenery

The property is surrounded by lush greenery
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

The picturesque Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues at twilight, and an absolute calm form our first impression of Dvara Siruvani. Before we get to the property, which is an hour’s drive from the city, we stop by for a satisfying lunch at Rasanai with Kongu kozhi thanni rasam, a fiery chicken soup, followed by a line-up of chicken biryani, and the impressive Sivaji Nagar military hotel mutton chops, rounded off with mango pudding for dessert.

Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Once at Dvara, I sip my welcome drink and watch the mighty hills and the forests take on a many colours. There are 16 cottages that include mountain view, private infinity pools and garden view. Each cottage is named after native flowers likekonrai, vaagai, parijatham to name a few. I bow down to enter my cottage named Kurunji through an artistically carved door that once graced a Chettiar home in Karaikudi. Short in stature, such doors encouraged the tradition of bowing while entering a home to show its inhabitants respect and humility. A private garden opens into stunning views of the Western Ghats and copious waters of the Noyyal flowing into the Mundanthurai check dam. Heirloom furniture including a wooden poster bed, Tanjore glass paintings and aesthetic artefacts compliment the interiors. An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. 

 “The property was a bit of an accident,” recalls Vikram Mohan, chairman of Pricol group that runs Dvara. “The property evolved from a desiliting project to an outbound training centre with tents. Later, my wife Lakshmi and I developed Dvara as a labour of love. We both are collectors of South Indian antiquities for many years, from old Kanjivaram saris and Ravi Varma prints to old vengalapitalapathram, kadarams, thengaithuruvis and kavadis. Our bed runners feature paaavadai davani designs in multiple colours. Lakshmi’s collection of her grandmother’s saris became the beds’ backdrop. We celebrate all things South Indian, Tamil heritage and conceptualised the property as a throwback to visiting homes in villages complete with Kongunadu samayal.”

Every corner at the property unravels cultural memorabilia. Old utensils, South Indian antique artefacts, Tanjore paintings and enamelware peek through the common areas that have an old world charm. An antique chest at the reception is stunning.

 An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

 An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

 “Some of the urulis displayed bear the cross on them indicating that they have been used in Christian households to make payasam. We added details like ergonomically designed thinnai, oonjal, and vilakkumaadam to replicate village life. While the doors tell stories of humility and a method of self-defence, the AshtaMangalam mural is indicative of qualities one needs to have to lead a good quality life. There is abundant greenery and the entire landscaping credit goes to my wife. We added Pollachi rekla vandi, and terracotta horses (crafted by a potter from Tirunelveli) to the garden decor. It’s more like a virunthombal experience.”

At dinner time, Chef Arul and his team lay out fluffy idiyappamidlis and creamy chicken stew. After a round of sulaimani, we call it a day. At the crack of dawn, along with M Rajesh, an in-house naturalist, we walk past bougainvillea and jasmine blooms, yellow trumpet trees and Rangoon creepers with red flower clusters for a trek to the foothills of the Western Ghats. Along the way, we spot a purple sunbird, an Oriental darter sunbathing with its wings spread out on a tree top, while the colourful Indian Pita whistles away and the common hawk-cuckoo sings repetitively.

Short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

Short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Lunch at Aarogyam, the in-house restaurant, showcases delicious Kongu cuisine. We try the aromatic Keeranur chicken biryani, bun parotta with Kongunadu mutton kuzhambu and vethalai poondu saadam, short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. As a culinary anthropologist, Vikram has been studying the history of food of Peninsular India and that’s how he introduced Kongu cuisine.

“It’s all about the nuances of flavours. For example, betel leaf has a strong taste and how that imparts a dish or garlic when it’s slightly roasted without curry. In Pollachi mutton kuzhambu, the flavouring comes from drumstick used in the curry. In villages around Karur, there is sorakkai thattaipayir saadam eaten with vaalaithanduthayir pachadi,” explains Vikram adding that he also picked recipes like asari kozhi varuval, endemic to the region. “There is something called porial podi made with six ingredients like coriander seeds, fenugreek, dry chillies, channa dal, urad dal, and a hint of black pepper, coarsely ground. A pinch of asafoetida gives the umami flavour.”

After a relaxing foot massage at the spa, I sit by the thinnai and gaze at the mountains, content and happy

To know more, visit dvara.in or call 7339111222

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Kerala lawyers campaign against drug abuse in schools during pan-India road trip

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Nijas Thamarasserry and the students at Mawlangkhar Secondary School in Meghalaya taking a vow against drug use

Nijas Thamarasserry and the students at Mawlangkhar Secondary School in Meghalaya taking a vow against drug use
| Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

When Binu Varghese and Nijas Thamarasserry, lawyers at the Kerala High Court, planned a road trip this year, they did not want it to be just another drive across the country. “We wanted it to mean something — for us and for society,” says 58-year-old Binu over a phone call from Meghalaya, where they are currently travelling.

They call their journey the ‘Bharath Darshan Yatra – Phase 2’. In the first leg last year, they drove to Ladakh and back in 24 days covering 9,145 kilometres. This time, their mission is fuelled by a growing concern: the rise of drug abuse, especially among school and college students.

“Since January, Kerala has seen a surge in drug-related cases — across news and social media. The crimes are horrifying. And during our travels, which began on March 2, we realised this is a pan-India issue. Teachers and guardians everywhere are worried,” Binu explains.

Binu Varghese and Nijas Thamarasserry on the road.

Binu Varghese and Nijas Thamarasserry on the road.
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Their road trip has doubled as an awareness campaign, where they conduct interactive sessions in schools, colleges and any public events they came across while on the road, highlighting the dangers of substance abuse. “We tell students that travel is an obsession worth having — something that brings real, enriching experiences. They don’t need to seek dangerous highs like drugs,” Binu says.

The duo speaks to students about how drugs can derail academics, relationships, and long-term goals. “We urge them to stay alert and report any known cases of drug use to their teachers,” adds Nijas.

As lawyers who often handle drug-related cases — mostly involving MDMA in Kerala — they have seen first-hand the damage it causes. “Turns out it’s not just a Kerala problem. It’s everywhere,” says Nijas.

Their campaign has received enthusiastic support from educational institutions. They approached some school directly and the others through local contacts. They received an enthusiastic response wherever they went. “At one school in West Bengal, we spoke to 100 students, and the administration immediately asked us to address another class,” Nijas shares.

Nijas at Ramathanga Government Higher Secondary School in Cooch Bihar, West Bengal

Nijas at Ramathanga Government Higher Secondary School in Cooch Bihar, West Bengal
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Depending on the region, they have conducted sessions in Malayalam, Tamil, Hindi, and English, with translators provided where needed. Their route so far has taken them through Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal, Assam, and Meghalaya. They plan to cover the rest of the Northeast — Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Tripura, and Mizoram — before heading to Sikkim, Nepal, and Bhutan.

In every state, they inform students and educators about the Narcotics Control Bureau (NCB), which has zonal offices across India, and share helpline numbers and the NCB pledge to encourage reporting. “Many don’t even know these resources exist,” Binu says.

Both Binu (from Thrissur) and Nijas (from Kozhikode) are classmates from Karnataka State Law University, Bengaluru. Binu, a teetotaller, even has a signboard outside his home that forbids alcohol, drugs, and weapons. “People laughed at me once, but look at where we are now,” he remarks.

They are travelling in Binu’s jeep, sleeping either in the vehicle or at petrol pumps, and plan to stay on the road for another month.

Asked why they chose to turn a potential holiday into a demanding campaign, they say: “It’s our social responsibility as lawyers. There’s nothing in it for us — but we believe in contributing meaningfully. If we don’t act now, drug abuse will become an epidemic.”

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