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In the UK, Kerala restaurants serve tapioca, fish curry and Indian maps to diners

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The enthusiastic campaign to keep Veeraswamy on London’s Regent Street open demonstrates Britain’s well-documented passion for Mulligatawny Soup, chicken tikka and vindaloo. The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, the Michelin-star Veeraswamy may not reach its centenary next year, because of a lease dispute, however it did start a curry revolution. Moving forward from the stereotypical, and admittedly inauthentic India-inspired baltis and tikkas of the past, regional Indian restaurants are getting increasingly popular. Especially those from Kerala.

Do you know about Virat Kohli’s go-to restaurant when he visits England or plays at the famous Headingley Cricket Ground in the Headingley Stadium complex in Leeds? It’s Tharavadu, a fine-dining restaurant serving authentic Kerala food in the city centre.

Virat Kohli and Anoushka Sharma posing for a photo with Tharavadu staff when they visited Leeds in 2021 during Covid 19 pandemic

Virat Kohli and Anoushka Sharma posing for a photo with Tharavadu staff when they visited Leeds in 2021 during Covid 19 pandemic
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Siby Jose, who co-founded Tharavadu with Prakash Mendonca, Ajith Kumar, Rajesh Nair and Manoharan Gopal says that the restaurant, rose to the front burner of fame in September 2014, just a couple of months after its launch. “The Indian team was here for a tournament and they were staying at the Marriott Hotel, just across the road from Tharavadu. MS Dhoni wanted South Indian breakfast for the team. However, the Pakistani chef at the hotel was not familiar with South Indian cuisine. So, we went to the hotel early in the morning with dosa batter and made fresh dosas along with sambhar and chutney for the team,” he recalls.

Tharavadu was featured four consecutive times (2016-2019) in the Michelin Restaurant Guide, and was included in the Top 100 UK restaurants of 2023 and 2024 by SquareMeal

Tharavadu was featured four consecutive times (2016-2019) in the Michelin Restaurant Guide, and was included in the Top 100 UK restaurants of 2023 and 2024 by SquareMeal
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

Soon after, Sanju Samson visited the restaurant, and then Kohli dropped in. Since then, Tharavadu is frequented by the Indian cricket team every time they play a match in Leeds. The restaurant has also hosted Kohli and Anushka Sharma during 2019 ICC Cricket World Cup and in 2021 India tour of England.

One of the signed customer reviews displayed at Tharavadu

One of the signed customer reviews displayed at Tharavadu
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

Lack of familiarity

The archetypal Indian restaurant in the UK has always been a place that serves curries in a narrow range of bases — tikka masala, karahi, jalfrezi, balti, vindaloo and so on — forming the bulk of what is popularly known as British-Indian cuisine.

Porotta and Kozhi Kurumulagu served at Tharavadu

Porotta and Kozhi Kurumulagu served at Tharavadu
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

Although there are restaurants now, mostly in big cities, that focus on delivering more authentic dishes, most of them focus on Delhi or Punjabi cuisines, or popular street specialties, such as chaat, channa bhatura and vada pav. South Indian restaurants are few and far between, and that includes Sri Lankan restaurants that serve dishes popular in South Indian states as well.

Kozhi Kurumulagu made using fresh green peppercorns, a special dish of Tharavadu

Kozhi Kurumulagu made using fresh green peppercorns, a special dish of Tharavadu
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

Britain is still largely unfamiliar with the food of Kerala, even though it has a a significant population of people from the state. So, Siby’s and his team have to constantly explain how diverse India is to local customers. “That’s the reason why we have a map of the country here to explain that India is such a big country, and every state has its own style of curries and ingredients,” Siby says, pointing to the big map of India behind him on the wall. Maps of each district in Kerala are also on the walls of Tharavadu.

Kayal restaurant in Leicester

Kayal restaurant in Leicester
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

For the same reason, Kayal restaurant’s Leicester branch houses two television sets that play visuals of cultural aspects of Kerala on a loop. “The TV was the first thing that we installed when we started this restaurant 20 years back. When other British restaurants used the TV to show sporting events, we wanted to introduce our customers to the land where this food was coming from,” says Jaimon Thomas, who is the founder and owner of Kayal and its sister restaurants across England. Kayal has three branches, one each in Nottingham, Leamington Spa and West Byfleet. They also have a branch in Melbourne, Australia. The restaurant chain has a franchising program too.

Sea Bass Mappas and Appam served at Kayal restaurant

Sea Bass Mappas and Appam served at Kayal restaurant
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

“Kerala cuisine was a real discovery for many people in Leicester when we first opened it. I couldn’t believe that customers were queuing up within a few weeks of the opening. Many people were coming from other parts of UK to try our food,” Jaimon recalls.

Balancing spices and courses

While local crowds are used to the medium-spice levels of British-Indian cuisine, there is a question of how they might respond to Kerala dishes, which can contain chilli pepper, bird’s-eye green chillies, red chilli powder and black pepper.

Kunji Njandu Vattichathu, a softshell crab dish served at Tharavadu

Kunji Njandu Vattichathu, a softshell crab dish served at Tharavadu
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

The trick is to cook as per the spice tolerance of the local crowd, while retaining the original flavours of the recipes. “We retain the authenticity of the Kerala cuisine while reducing the spice levels a bit, and we don’t skip any of the ingredients such as kokum or chillies (that make our dishes unique). We even export green pepper corns from Kerala for certain recipes. For instance, kozhi kurumulagu is a chicken dish made with fresh pepper. We make special chicken stock and infuse it with the flavours of pepper corns and other ingredients without over-spicing it,” explains Ajith Kumar, the executive chef at Tharavadu.

King Prawns dish served at Tharavadu

King Prawns dish served at Tharavadu
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

Designing the menu in a European-course-meal style is another way in which Kerala restaurants have been catering to locals’ preferences. The Kayal restaurant is a trendsetter in this regard as it was one of the first restaurants in the UK to present the Kerala cuisine in a course-meal structure that several other Kerala restaurants follow today. “So, we have a three-course menu with starters, main course items and desserts. When deciding the starters, the first thing that came to my mind was beef ullarthiyathu that my mom used to make for dad to have with his drink. Likewise, the banana boli that we have as an afternoon snack in Kerala is a starter for us here,” Jaimon says.

Selling point

There are exceptions too — not everything has to cater to the British palate. Saji Kurian, veteran chef of Kalpakavadi restaurant, which was launched in 2019 in the old city of York, says the spicy-tangy fish dishes of Kerala sell the most. He adds that they make fish curries just like they do at home in Kerala in an earthen vessel, without compromising on spice levels, only adjusting them when someone asks. “Kappa (tapioca) and naadan fish curry is probably the most popular choice here. Meen pollichathu sells a lot as well. We use a whole sea bass for that, then stuff it with prawns and roast it in a banana leaf,” he explains.

Kalpakavadi restaurant in York

Kalpakavadi restaurant in York
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

It’s the same story at Tharavadu and Kayal. Kerala’s backwater delicacies are all the rage, and the flaky, fluffy Kerala porotta is a big hit with locals. “We did a bit of research, and found that meen kootaan (fish curry) with porotta is the most-ordered dish. On an average, we sell around 300 porottas every day. We got a chef only for that dish,” adds Siby.

At Kayal, the seafood platter, comprising squid rings, mussels, prawns and fish fillet, marinated and fried in Kerala style, is an extremely popular starter, and so is the pepper-packed salmon mappas with fluffy appams.

Kerala vegan options

While seafood and other non-veg dishes sell the most, many health and climate-conscious customers are also finding vegan and gluten-free options in Kerala cuisine attractive. Apart from the obvious options, such as thorans (sauteed vegetables with grated coconut) and vegetable-based dishes that are staple to Kerala cuisine, chefs are improvising to create new dishes. “Although we had quite a few gluten-free main course options, we did not have anything in the desserts that those allergic to gluten can have. So, we came up with a dessert called vattayappam fudge cake, using Kerala’s own sweet rice-cake, vattayappam. It’s made by filling vattayappam with a syrup made of butter cream and brown sugar, and then pouring chocolate sauce over it. In our next menu, we are going to introduce a cream-caramel based dessert using kinnathappam (another sweet rice-cake) for those with dairy-allergy,” explains chef Ajith.

Vegan restaurant Herb in Leicester

Vegan restaurant Herb in Leicester
| Photo Credit:
Aswin VN

This demand for vegan food drove Kayal group to even start a dedicated vegan restaurant called Herb in 2017, in Leicester. “We have staple vegan dishes in our cuisine, and we were noticing that a lot of our customers were coming here just for our vegan options. So, when veganism became a trend some years back, we decided to start a vegan restaurant for fine dining”, says Jaimon. A cursory look at the Herb menu shows how diverse the cuisine can be and how flexible it is to improvisation with creations such as green papaya stew and jackfruit ularthiyathum kadala curryum (Slow-roasted jack fruit with chickpea curry).

This flexibility, to be able to cater to drastically different food preferences with a variety of authentic veg and non-veg options, is what helps Kerala restaurants stand apart in the highly competitive Indian restaurant market of the UK. With more and more Kerala restaurants opening across the UK every year, it is clear that the cuisine is becoming a mainstay of the British culinary scene.

Travel

Boating launched in Sanna Kere in Yadgir

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Visitors taking a boat ride after the launch of the service at Sanna Kere in Lumbini Garden of Yadgir on Monday.

Visitors taking a boat ride after the launch of the service at Sanna Kere in Lumbini Garden of Yadgir on Monday.
| Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

The district administration, the Zilla Panchayat, the Tourism Department and Bengaluru-based Vinyog Ventures Private Limited have jointly launched boating facility at Sanna Kere, located in Lumbini Garden in Yadgir city.

MLA Channareddy Patil Tunnur inaugurated the facility on Monday.

“There are four types of water boat facilities in which visitors can travel. One each of kayaking, bumping, general and rafting boats are available for visitors. Visitors of all ages will find something to their liking,” Mr. Tunnur said.

Yadgir CMC Chairperson Lalita Anapur has said that it was the dream of citizens to travel in boats. “The dream has come true. The citizens should make use of the facility,” she said.

Assistant Director in the Tourism Department Ramachandra said that a tender will be floated to develop boat facilities in Mavinakere at Shahapur, Ibrahimpur Kere, Narayanpur Reservoir and Minaspur Kere.

Additional Deputy Commissioner Sharanabasappa Koteppagol was among those who participated in the inauguration ceremony.

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This Pride month we talk to tour groups that curate travels and experiences for the LGBTQ+ community

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This Pride month we talk to tour groups that curate travels and experiences for the LGBTQ+ community

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Sunrise in Siruvani: A peek into Tamil culture and Kongunadu cuisine

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The property is surrounded by lush greenery

The property is surrounded by lush greenery
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

The picturesque Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues at twilight, and an absolute calm form our first impression of Dvara Siruvani. Before we get to the property, which is an hour’s drive from the city, we stop by for a satisfying lunch at Rasanai with Kongu kozhi thanni rasam, a fiery chicken soup, followed by a line-up of chicken biryani, and the impressive Sivaji Nagar military hotel mutton chops, rounded off with mango pudding for dessert.

Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Once at Dvara, I sip my welcome drink and watch the mighty hills and the forests take on a many colours. There are 16 cottages that include mountain view, private infinity pools and garden view. Each cottage is named after native flowers likekonrai, vaagai, parijatham to name a few. I bow down to enter my cottage named Kurunji through an artistically carved door that once graced a Chettiar home in Karaikudi. Short in stature, such doors encouraged the tradition of bowing while entering a home to show its inhabitants respect and humility. A private garden opens into stunning views of the Western Ghats and copious waters of the Noyyal flowing into the Mundanthurai check dam. Heirloom furniture including a wooden poster bed, Tanjore glass paintings and aesthetic artefacts compliment the interiors. An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. 

 “The property was a bit of an accident,” recalls Vikram Mohan, chairman of Pricol group that runs Dvara. “The property evolved from a desiliting project to an outbound training centre with tents. Later, my wife Lakshmi and I developed Dvara as a labour of love. We both are collectors of South Indian antiquities for many years, from old Kanjivaram saris and Ravi Varma prints to old vengalapitalapathram, kadarams, thengaithuruvis and kavadis. Our bed runners feature paaavadai davani designs in multiple colours. Lakshmi’s collection of her grandmother’s saris became the beds’ backdrop. We celebrate all things South Indian, Tamil heritage and conceptualised the property as a throwback to visiting homes in villages complete with Kongunadu samayal.”

Every corner at the property unravels cultural memorabilia. Old utensils, South Indian antique artefacts, Tanjore paintings and enamelware peek through the common areas that have an old world charm. An antique chest at the reception is stunning.

 An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

 An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

 “Some of the urulis displayed bear the cross on them indicating that they have been used in Christian households to make payasam. We added details like ergonomically designed thinnai, oonjal, and vilakkumaadam to replicate village life. While the doors tell stories of humility and a method of self-defence, the AshtaMangalam mural is indicative of qualities one needs to have to lead a good quality life. There is abundant greenery and the entire landscaping credit goes to my wife. We added Pollachi rekla vandi, and terracotta horses (crafted by a potter from Tirunelveli) to the garden decor. It’s more like a virunthombal experience.”

At dinner time, Chef Arul and his team lay out fluffy idiyappamidlis and creamy chicken stew. After a round of sulaimani, we call it a day. At the crack of dawn, along with M Rajesh, an in-house naturalist, we walk past bougainvillea and jasmine blooms, yellow trumpet trees and Rangoon creepers with red flower clusters for a trek to the foothills of the Western Ghats. Along the way, we spot a purple sunbird, an Oriental darter sunbathing with its wings spread out on a tree top, while the colourful Indian Pita whistles away and the common hawk-cuckoo sings repetitively.

Short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. Shot on oneplus #frames of India

Short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. Shot on oneplus #frames of India
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Lunch at Aarogyam, the in-house restaurant, showcases delicious Kongu cuisine. We try the aromatic Keeranur chicken biryani, bun parotta with Kongunadu mutton kuzhambu and vethalai poondu saadam, short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. As a culinary anthropologist, Vikram has been studying the history of food of Peninsular India and that’s how he introduced Kongu cuisine.

“It’s all about the nuances of flavours. For example, betel leaf has a strong taste and how that imparts a dish or garlic when it’s slightly roasted without curry. In Pollachi mutton kuzhambu, the flavouring comes from drumstick used in the curry. In villages around Karur, there is sorakkai thattaipayir saadam eaten with vaalaithanduthayir pachadi,” explains Vikram adding that he also picked recipes like asari kozhi varuval, endemic to the region. “There is something called porial podi made with six ingredients like coriander seeds, fenugreek, dry chillies, channa dal, urad dal, and a hint of black pepper, coarsely ground. A pinch of asafoetida gives the umami flavour.”

After a relaxing foot massage at the spa, I sit by the thinnai and gaze at the mountains, content and happy

To know more, visit dvara.in or call 7339111222

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