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Discover native mango varieties in Chennai

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The Organic Shandy, Mylapore

Native mango varieties reign this year says organic farmer and co-founder of Organic Shandy, PB Murali. He adds that the mango season in Tamil Nadu has been quite the disaster so far, with farmers managing only about 20% of the expected yield. However, as they are all discovering, the heritage varieties are more resilient.

 The organic shandy, Mylapore.

The organic shandy, Mylapore.
| Photo Credit:
SRINATH M

At his farm in Madhuranthakam, near Chennai, the harvest from over 5,000 trees spread across 60 acres, was hit due to unexpected, unseasonal rains and thunderstorms two weeks ago. Despite the poor yield in the state, Murali’s store stocks several types of mango, including Banganapalli, Imam Pasand, Malgova, Alphonso, Mallika, Pathiri, and Panchavarnam, the native variety from Rajapalayam. “This year one of our farmers harvested a local variety called Yaanathalai (translating to elephant head), which is a huge fruit weighing over a kilogram,” he says.

This pivot to finding, sourcing and cultivating native varieties has been observed across the state. Murali also points out that supply is abundant from neighbouring states. “Prices have hence, come down this year,” says Murali. While you are shopping, also pick up their mango jam, pulp and milk shakes.

Imam pasand at reStore

Imam pasand at reStore
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Orders can be placed over the phone, with home delivery available across the city. The shop is open from 10am to 8pm, and is closed on Sundays. Phone: 7708612348.

Organic Farmers Market, Adyar

Despite the challenges this year, some native varieties appear to be more resilient to climate conditions. “We have hence stocked a variety called Karunkurangu, which has a dark green and very thick skin, sourced from Dindigul, and we are trying to source more native varieties,” says Anantha Sayanan, co-founder, Organic Farmers Market (OFM). He notes that the Salem region, which usually has good yield, has also been affected by unseasonal rains. “Salem, Dharmapuri and Krishnagiri, which are major mango-producing regions in the state, were the worst hit this year, due to unexpected rainfall during the flowering season. The season had a late start, and now we are dealing with significantly less yields,” he says.

Wide range of mangoes at the  Organic Farmers Market, Adayar.

Wide range of mangoes at the Organic Farmers Market, Adayar.
| Photo Credit:
SRINATH M

At OFM, they have Imam Pasand, Banganapali, Malgoa, Alphonso, Senthuram and small quantities of Kalapadi. As their mission is to support the farmers they work with, they keep margins low, making the produce affordable.

OFM is open from 10am to 6pm. They also have additional stores in various locations within Chennai, apart from Adyar. To place your order, call 6380169943.

Cholayil Farm to Table, Anna Nagar

Susmera Cholayil, co-founder, Cholayil Farm to Table store, is left with over two tonnes of raw mangoes, that are not suitable for sales. “The 85 acre, Cholayil mango grove at Vengal village in Tiruvallur, with around 900 trees and nearly 45 varieties of mango, has produced just 30% of its expected yield,” she says.

Organic mangoes from Cholayil farms, Vengal village.

Organic mangoes from Cholayil farms, Vengal village.

She adds, “We hope to harvest remaining fruits by the end of May. ” In the meantime, she is exploring ways to process the raw mangoes into pickles and solar-dried products. “We are expecting an extended season this year, and gradually, all varieties at our farm will be harvested by next month and available for sale,” she says. Currently, they have stocked Banganapalli, Bengalura, Alphonso and more varieties such as Kalapadi, Swarnarekha, Neelam, Malgoa, Pathiri and Rasalu, will be stocked as and when it is harvested.

The store is open from 10 am to 7 pm. To pre-book your mangoes, call 7550155005.

Safe Foods, Thiruvanmiyur

Gopi Devarajan, who founded Safe Foods, an organic store, brings over a decade of experience in sourcing organic food products. He says he primarily sources his mangoes from farmers in Tamil Nadu as well as from the border regions of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. There has been moderate to poor yield in the Tiruvallur and Dindigul districts.“This year, the Banganapalli from Kadapa is particularly sweet, and I am looking forward to the arrival of native varieties such as Kalapadi, Nadusalai, and Sakkarakatti in a few weeks,” says Gopi. He observes that the mango season has been relatively good in the neighbouring southern states.

Banganapalli and Senthuram at Safe Foods

Banganapalli and Senthuram at Safe Foods
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

At Safe Foods, the current stock includes Banganapalli, Imam Pasand, Senthuram, Malgoa, Alphonso, Javari, and Mallika. More varieties are expected to arrive during the first week of June.

Mangoes can be prebooked between 11am to 8pm. Phone: 9790900887.

reStore Organic Store, Kottivakkam

At reStore, which sources mangoes from across Tamil Nadu, a wide range of varieties are currently available. These include Malgoa, Mallika, Kesar, Rasalu, Senthuram, Dasheri, Imam Pasand, Alphonso, Javari and Banganapalli are now available.

Banganapalli at Cholayil Farm to Table

Banganapalli at Cholayil Farm to Table

“Some farmers are yet to complete their harvest, so the mango season is likely to extend till August,” R Karthik, manager of the store, says. He is also looking forward to the arrival of native varieties such as Peether and Pathiri from Kanchipuram district.

You can book your mangoes and get them home delivered. 10am to 7pm. Phone: 9840571842.

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Food

Madurai Kullappa Mess brings the flavours of southern Tamil Nadu to your plate

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An assortment of popular dishes at Madurai Kullappa Mess

An assortment of popular dishes at Madurai Kullappa Mess
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Now, find the flavours of Madurai in the heart of Chennai. At Madurai Kullappa Mess, the menu is built around meat: ghee mutton chukka, brain masala, liver fry, and head and trotters curry. However, it is the seafood here that seems to pull the most crowds, from crisp netheli fry to their Sunday-only ayira meen kuzhambu (a tamarind-based gravy made using this freshwater fish native to Tamil Nadu. These are tiny and slender fish often found in canals along agricultural fields and ponds. Due to their size, they are typically cooked whole.)

Promoted by Jeyanandh Dinakaran and helmed by managing director V Sivasankaran, this restaurant brings the bold, rustic flavors of Madurai to the city, with a menu that celebrates everything from biryani to meat-based gravies.

We visited this newly launched restaurant on a sunny afternoon to try their non-vegetarian set meals (₹299 andveg ₹225). The meals come with unlimited rice and five gravies, including crab, fish, chicken, mutton and a robust karuvadu thokku (a semi-gravy made with dried fish) .

As we waited for our order, Sivasankaran explained that the masalas are made in-house, with the lamb meat sourced from Thiruvallur district. The ghee, cold pressed groundnut and gingelly oil are brought in from the Delta regions, along the river Cauvery in Tamil Nadu. “Our signature dish is ayira meen kulmabu which is served only on Sundays and viraal meen varuval, available everyday. We get ayirai meen from Madurai, which we transport in aluminium cans on buses. This dish sells out quickly, so we recommend pre-booking,” he says.

Simmakal Seeraga Samba Biryani

Simmakal Seeraga Samba Biryani
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

We try the viral meen varuval along with the Simmakkal-style seeraga samba biryani. The biryani is moist, clumped together and not fluffy owing to the texture of the native rice. It was rather underwhelming. It is available in chicken and mutton variants, priced at ₹310 and ₹410, respectively.

To round off the meal, we order mutton ghee chukka and mutton uppu kari — two classic Madurai-style dry preparations. When the set meals arrive, I taste all the gravies, and the mutton kulambu and karuvadu thokku stand out for their depth of flavor. The viraal meen is crisp on the outside and moist inside, perfectly fried. Uppu Kari, Sivasankaran explains, uses the bare essentials: red chilli, shallots, garlic, pepper, and salt, all slow-cooked in gingelly oil. The mutton nei (ghee) chukka has an intense flavour and tender meat. Though the dish carries the rich aroma of ghee, there’s none in the cooking — only the red chillies are roasted in ghee before being added.

Viraal meen fry

Viraal meen fry
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Madurai Kullappa Mess offers Chennai diners a taste of Madurai’s hearty, meat-centric cuisine. While the gravies in the set meal were more subdued than expected and did not leave a lasting impression, the dry meat and seafood specials shine with bold, rustic flavors.

Non-vegetarain set meals is priced at ₹299)

Non-vegetarain set meals is priced at ₹299)
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Madurai Kullappa Mess, T Nagar. Open from noon to 11pm. A meal for two is ₹800. For reservations, call 6385123456 .

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Food

Looking for meat-heavy breakfast options in Madurai? Try Amsavalli Bhavan

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Amsavalli Bhavan in Madurai is among the oldest restaurants in the city.

Amsavalli Bhavan in Madurai is among the oldest restaurants in the city.
| Photo Credit: MOORTHY G

It is not yet 9am when a man arrives at Amsavalli carrying a steel thookuvali and a cloth bag. The hum of workers getting the parcel counter ready fills the air, and he waits patiently as uthappams and parottas are being prepared in the kitchen. It is a dinner-time ritual for people in Madurai to lug a thookuvali to a streetside parotta shop for salna. At Amsavalli though, this also happens at breakfast time. The restaurant, that has been in existence for over 75 years, offers a breakfast menu unlike anywhere else in the city: think mutton liver curry and brain fry. Here, mutton offal is served for a little over an hour from 9.30am onwards, getting sold-out long before lunch is ready.

Mutton cops at Amsavalli in Madurai served for breakfast with uthappam and parotta.

Mutton cops at Amsavalli in Madurai served for breakfast with uthappam and parotta.
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

G Arunraj, the third-generation owner of the restaurant on East Veli Street, says that the menu is an extension of his grandfather’s idea of offering mutton samosas, trotters paaya, and dum tea from 4am to 6am. “This was served from our initial days,” says the 47-year-old, adding that their chief customers were workers at the wholesale markets at nearby Nelpettai and Vethalaipettai. “The entire neighbourhood used to be bustling from as early as 3.30am, with load men lugging bulging sacks,” he says, adding that they also had early morning walkers who would round off their routine with a cup of their paaya.

The pre-dawn snacks eventually gave way to the present menu, that Arunraj says gets sold-out by 11am. The menu includes a range of mutton offal curries that can be paired with their soft parottas or uthappams.

The curries come in small portions, and can be easily polished off with two uthappams. We order a serving of almost everything on the menu. The mutton nenju chops, a fiery semi-gravy of meat slow-cooked until it is softer than their parotta, is easily a favourite.

Although tempted to order more portions, we move on to the other offerings: eeral kulambu, mutton liver cooked in a chilli and coriander masala base, mutton kidneys enveloped in a spicy masala, and the mutton chukka. The latter pairs well with their parotta. But the highlight is the mutton onion kulambu, a fragrant curry of meat simmered in shallots. This is best had with their thick uthappams: douse a piece in the curry and wrap it in a small piece of mutton to enjoy the flavours of meat and the curry to the fullest.

Mutton liver curry at Amsavalli

Mutton liver curry at Amsavalli
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

Our waiter suggests we try their famous apple milk. The chilled dessert of tiny pieces of apple and thick milk served in a tall glass, we realise, cools down the palate after the onslaught of the spices. Two parottas, one uthappam, and several plates of the curries down, we realise why this menu works. Mutton is irresistible, no matter which part of the day it is served.

Open for breakfast from 9.30am to 11am. Call  0452 262 0117 for details.

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Food

Brandon’s Egg Roll Tacos Recipe

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Egg Roll, Meet Taco.

Lindsay Ostrom headshot.

Are you even ready for this? What we have here is like an egg roll filling (meat, cabbage, carrots, soy sauce, garlic, ginger) meets a fried little taco (flour tortilla, fresh veg on top, gochujang sauce for serving) and the whole thing eats a lot like a folded sandwich.

That’s going to be a big yes from me.

My friend Brandon has been telling me about these for weeks. I know the whole idea of meat smashed into tortillas is really having a moment on social media (smash burger tacos, chicken Caesar smash tacos, etc.), but the concept has always seemed a little strange to me.

Until I tried these ones – and now I’m a believer.

Besides being super yummy (don’t skip the gochujang sauce it is DIVINE on there) – these are shockingly easy to make. I know some of the recipes in the last SOS series leaned a little more towards “involved” than I normally do – there were some extras that I just couldn’t let go of. Shallot crispies, panko breading, house sauce, etc. So let’s think of this as a BONUS SOS recipe. You can easily make this in 20 minutes without breaking a sweat.

Hope you love it! And thanks to Brandon for sharing this idea with me! YOU WERE RIGHT!

Lindsay signature.

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