The summer sun shines pleasantly down on the Nowgam railway station in Srinagar, located at an altitude of 1,730 metres above sea level, and just nine kilometres from Lal Chowk, the city centre. It’s around 7 a.m. on June 10.
India’s railway stations usually smell of a heavy mix of diesel and fried food. Nowgam doesn’t; it smells of timber instead. The red-brick, double-storey station with a sloped green tin roof has elements of Kashmiri architecture: woodcarving on the windows and khatamband, parquet on the ceiling. The two-platform station has the cleanliness of a well-kept hospital and the security of an airport. Outside, the central kerb of the two-lane road is lined with cypresses, and on the roadside are a few signatory chinars, unique to Kashmir.
Outside the station is a larger-than-life hoarding with three faces: Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Jammu and Kashmir Lieutenant-Governor Manoj Sinha, and Chief Minister Omar Abdullah. It announces the inauguration of the Vande Bharat Express between Srinagar and Katra, opened by the PM on June 6, integrating the line with the rest of India’s. The hoarding has three bold terms to call people’s attention to it: “Strengthening national integration”, “Boosting trade and tourism”, “Empowering economic growth”.
For Abid Dar, 48, and Khursheed Dar, his father in his late 60s, apple orchardists from Pulwama district’s Newa village, the train is a journey to hope and recovery. Abid has stomach cancer, and the duo will travel to Jammu, from where they will catch another train to Delhi.
“We plan to go to the All India Institute of Medical Sciences there. The train has been a great comfort for patients like my son,” says Khursheed. Previously, the journey from Srinagar to Katra in Jammu, would have taken 24 hours; now it will take 13 hours, covering 191 km.
The world’s highest railway arch bridge over the Chenab river, at a height of 359 metres above the riverbed.
| Photo Credit:
IMRAN NISSAR
The operation to connect Kashmir to the rest of India was started in 1994, and declared a national project in 2008, funded by the Central government. Now, the 272-km Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla rail link, of which the Srinagar-Katra stretch has been developed so far, is the first train to link the Kashmir Valley to Jammu, in the plains. While trains on the broad-gauge tracks plied within Kashmir, the connection to the rest of India was only through air and road.
This stretch of the track that cost ₹43,780 crore runs through mountains and over deep gorges. It offers a glimpse of India’s engineering strength and the extreme Himalayan terrain, with many firsts to the project.
Before the train came
Until 2009, Kashmir was connected to the rest of India via road and air, the former treacherous, the latter expensive for most. There was only one major surface link: the Srinagar-Jammu National Highway 44 that stretched down 294 km.
In 2009, the 84-km-long Mughal Road was inaugurated, connecting Shopian district of the Kashmir Valley with Jammu’s Poonch district. Both roads depend on the weather. In the rains and snow, parts would cave in, or boulders would fall on them from the mountains above, or there would be landslides.
According to J&K government data, the highway remained closed for 20.5 days (488 hours) in 2024 and 58 days (1,392 hours) in 2023. Up to 1,750 people have died on the highway between 2010 and 2020, according to the J&K Traffic Department, with injuries to 12,131. The road is so dangerous that parents ask children to recite their prayers or play a recording of the Koran before leaving for Jammu.
Those who don’t own cars have to show up at the bus station an hour earlier to get a seat. Cabs are often shared, and never punctual, with riders having to wait hours for other passengers to board to make it worthwhile for the driver.
The highway has deep gorges on one side and steep mountain faces on the other. Ramban, Reasi, and Udhampur districts have sharp, blind turns. There are few food and restroom stops along the way, which takes 6-8 hours to traverse.
While the weather remains a threat for the train too, it is security that people are more concerned about. A traveller, who does not want to be named, says, “The security of the train needs to be reviewed and revised regularly. It remains an area of concern for us.” In 2016, the Indian Railways recorded a loss of over ₹4.5 crore during the turmoil triggered by the killing of Hizbul Mujahideen commander Burhan Wani in south Kashmir during an encounter.
Firsts of many kinds
It’s 8.10 a.m. Passengers in twos and threes board the train, a mix of local students, families, businessmen, and tourists. For many youth, this is the first time they will ride in a train. “I am excited to see the engineering marvels that made it possible to connect Kashmir to the outside world through a rail link,” Ejaz Pandit, a Computer Science student from Srinagar, says. “I can now plan to apply for jobs easily and reach my destination in time, unlike in the past,” he adds.
There are eight coaches, including an executive coach offering chairs that tilt and with wider leg room for comfort. The number of bogies has been restricted to ensure that the train manoeuvres well through the mountain passes. For many, the journey right now is a joyride.
The Vande Bharat Express between Srinagar and Katra at a platform in Srinagar.
| Photo Credit:
IMRAN NISSAR
As the train leaves the station, it passes through swathes of rice fields on the periphery of Srinagar, drifting into the apple orchards of Pulwama. The Pir Panjal peaks play hide and seek through the clouds, and the panoramic windows allow for sweeping views.
Closer to the Banihal-Qazigund railway tunnel, south of Kashmir, the rice fields grow sparse and the mountain passes higher. Vegetation vanishes as the craggy, jagged surface of the Himalayas emerges with ridges and troughs. Banihal station, nestled in mountain ridges, is the only stop. The train enters the mouth of a mountain only to pass into another within minutes.
The 36 tunnels turn the journey into an experience of praxinoscope, with eyes catching mere fleeting images. Passengers pull out mobile phones and get up from their seats to catch a glimpse of Anji Khad, India’s first cable-stayed railway bridge. At 331 metres above the riverbed, it stretches 725 metres and is anchored by 96 high-tensile cables. Crossing the deep Anji river valley, the train heads for the Banihal-Katra section, snow-capped peaks visible in the distance. The Anji is a tributary of the Chenab.
The Chenab Rail Bridge, spanning 1,315 metres, has become a major attraction for many to board the train. It has been built to last 120 years and endure wind speeds of up to 260 km per hour. Khalid Majeed, a civil engineering student, is travelling with friends to see the bridge, which stands 359 metres above the riverbed. The world’s highest railway arch bridge is 35 metres higher than the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
As mobile phones struggle to record the mighty Chenab that looks like a stream from this height, people shout, “Bharat Mata ki jai”. The journey ends with the Trikuta mountains of Katra, also home to the Vaishno Devi temple. Now the mountains diminish in size, but faraway peaks still tower over Kashmir.
Jugal Kishore Sharma, Station Superintendent at the Mata Vaishno Devi Katra railway station, says, “There is a festive atmosphere among passengers. Everyone wants to enjoy the experience. No seats are available for the next 10 days.”
A future for apples and tourists
Jammu and Kashmir has seen an upscaling of apple production in the past few years, with 20.56 lakh metric tonnes (LMT) produced in 2024-2025 of which 13.13 LMT was exported up to February 2025. Apple growers produced 16.9 LMT in 2020-2021, according to figures from the J&K Horticulture Department.
Izhan Javed, 32, who deals with apples and owns a cold storage in Pulwama, has mixed feelings. “Once the refrigerated goods trains start running, it will mean great connectivity to southern markets. South India is not easily accessible to our apple dealers, and due to its proximity to ports, imported apples dominate the market there. The supply chain for our apples is costly, and the train can change that,” says Javed, who is also a member of the Jammu and Kashmir Fruits and Vegetables Processing and Integrated Cold Chain Association.
However, Javed says many questions remain unanswered so far: “How soon will the refrigerated train start? How will the point-to-point supply chain of apples be handled? As perishables require a fast and dedicated service, how affordable and accessible will that supply chain be made to small farmers?”
In the wake of the Pahalgam terror attack, the train represents hope for the tourism sector too. “We expect a major jump in tourist footfall in the coming months. The Valley must upgrade tourism infrastructure to cater to bigger volumes,” says Nasir Shah, managing director of Culture and Nature Expeditions, which organises adventure holidays within Kashmir. He also sees many youth joining the tourism industry in Kashmir in the years to come.
The Abdullahs on the train
In the executive coach is National Conference leader Farooq Abdullah, 87. He guides his grandsons Zamir and Zahir, both in their 20s, to their seats. They order food from one of the four menus that cater to north and south Indian tastes. The only thing from the area is Kashmiri pulao.
On the train, Abdullah speaks to reporters, his eyes moist, saying: “Our long-awaited dream has been fulfilled. It will reduce the cost of travel for ordinary Kashmiris, especially students and patients. Besides, the train is also the first step towards reducing ‘dil ki doori (gulf of hearts)’. More steps are needed.”
Zamir, who has lived across Kashmir and Delhi, says, “Beyond basic transportation, it’s an economic catalyst for Jammu and Kashmir. We are already seeing spontaneous tourism growth as pilgrims from Katra are travelling to Kashmir and exploring new routes.” He hopes to see other changes, like youth exploring education and employment opportunities and women travelling for jobs. His pride is in Kashmir’s “majestic valleys” seen from “this engineering marvel”.
INTERVIEW
‘It will boost travel, trade, and tourism in Jammu and Kashmir’
Railway Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw on the importance of the new line. Edited excerpts from an e-mail interview:
Union Railway Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw.
| Photo Credit:
SUSHIL KUMAR VERMA
What was the most challenging part of the project?
This dream of decades has become a reality overcoming many challenges, the unique Himalayan geology with earthquake-prone zones and difficult terrain being a significant one. Each of the 943 bridges had its own hurdles. Inaccessibility of the bridge sites was a common issue. Construction of over 215 km of approach roads to these sites was a project in itself. The 36 main tunnels and eight escape tunnels had a separate set of challenges, including landslides, cavity formations, water ingression, and the presence of methane gas.
How important is the rail link for the strategic and military needs of the region?
Kashmir was, is, and will always be an integral part of India. The rail link provides all-weather connectivity to border regions. The key difference in people’s lives is that they will now move easily between the Valley and the Jammu region. People will have access to transportation throughout the year.
How are you taking care of safety on two counts: extreme weather and the threat from terrorists?
Passenger safety is one of the topmost priorities of the Indian Railways. The bridges on the rail link have been designed to withstand extremely high wind speeds and high magnitude earthquakes. For instance, Chenab bridge can withstand wind speeds up to 266 kmph, and earthquakes of up to 8.0 magnitude on the Richter scale. Sensors installed on the bridge provide real-time data on factors like wind velocity, temperature, humidity, and vibrations. Advanced tunnel safety technologies have been employed. The 12.77-km-long Tunnel T-50 is India’s longest transportation tunnel. It is equipped with a series of CCTV cameras and a central control room for monitoring. Regarding threats from terrorists, the [PM Narendra] Modi doctrine is quite clear and now well-known to the world. Operation Sindoor has established a new normal where decisive retaliation is a key pillar.
How do you see the rail link integrating Kashmir into the mainland?
The line will boost travel, trade, and tourism in Jammu and Kashmir. Travel time from Jammu to Srinagar is halved. The Kashmiri golden apple, cherries, dry fruits, Pashmina shawl, and handicrafts will have quicker and easier access to global markets. During a recent interaction with local Kashmiris, they expressed a firm belief that the rail line will bring back the glory days and vibrancy of tourism. It is not only a dream come true but also a rekindling of hope for a Viksit Kashmir as part of a Viksit Bharat by 2047.
peerzada.ashiq@thehindu.co.in
Edited by Sunalini Mathew
Published – June 13, 2025 01:53 am IST
